A few archival snatches from the morning of  August 15, 1947 came with a national newspaper today. The sepia sheets spoke among other things, of cinema, riots, a Mahatma on fast, a toothpaste ad asking a very relevant question, “Are you afraid to kiss him?” Not much has changed, has it? If you discount the Mahatma, of course. Mumbai was still Bombay then. India was celebrating and eager to redefine its own identity. And Pakistan had just become Pakistan.

Despite the great human cost of Partition, both nations had a sense of hope that they would become sovereign, powerful and would blossom to their full potential. The concerns about good governance and peace we had then still persist. What has changed though is the quality of leadership. The new cabinet of India which was to start functioning from August 15, 1947 had a Nehru, Sardar Vallabh Bhai Patel, Dr Rajendra Prasad, Maulana Abdul Kalam Azad, Rajkumari Amrit Kaur, Dr Shyama Prasad Mookerji, Dr John Matthai and others.

This was a nation once led by stalwarts whose politics could be questioned but not their personal integrity. Few could be accused of putting personal interests before nationhood. Freedom was meant to empower us and help us build a nation we could be proud of. And yet, 65 years later, when a jaded foreign tourist commented on a social networking site I frequent, that any nation building of note in India has been done by ‘outsiders’ and not Indians themselves, I felt rage but also the need to examine what she was saying. So the British built the railroads. There is Lutyens’ Delhi. Corbusier’s Chandigarh. The French influence on Pondicherry. The Portuguese influence on Goa.

She has probably not heard or read about the Indus valley civilisation and its evolved urban culture, advanced town planning and as discovered in Harappa, and Mohenjodaro, the world’s first known urban sanitation systems. The ancient Indus systems of sewerage and drainage that still remain unsurpassed.

Maybe she doesn’t know that Indian architecture once had an innate understanding of region, cultural context, weather and geography and we have a architectural and civic heritage that can stand up to the most advanced and evolved civilisations.

We assimilated diverse strains that enriched our food, our arts and crafts, our architecture. It is here that Buddhism was born, Sikhism was founded, Christianity was welcomed, Islamic architecture found expression and we once built  aesthetic structures, intelligent cities, created rich artistic traditions, understood ecology and respected forces of nature. There was less greed, more refinement of thought and creative initiative. We should have brought all of these characteristics to the process of nation building post independence. And yet here we are, 65 years later living in an askew country steeped in visible corruption. In cities where even garbage cannot be managed efficiently and roads are not tarred and children fall in open drains and are swept away.

Rural India that was supposed be central to our identity as a nation has fallen off the edges of our consciousness. Farming land is being swallowed. Farmers kill themselves or get shot at when they assert land rights. Tribal rights have been suppressed brutally. We remember the North-East and Kashmir only in the wake of a bomb blast. We have acquired nukes but we can’t protect our cities from strolling terrorists and taxi bombs. And have we really lived up to the promise of that morning of August 15, 1947?

Freedom is the right to dignity and yet just yesterday, there was a report on manual scavenging in Karnataka. Not surprising in a state ruled by corruption where before every political upheaval, MLAs are taken to resorts to be bought and sold. And crores have been mined out of natural reserves under the patronage of political masters who cling to their seats of power when disgraced.

Freedom is accountability and yet a government mired in scams has been systematically and petulantly targetting those who are asking for it. So yesterday, there was an accusation from a party (accused of siphoning hundreds of crores in multiple scams) that Anna Hazare had spent over two lakhs on his birthday celebrations.

Freedom is gender equality. The right to education. The right to a safe childhood. None of these rights are completely protected in a country where women travelling in local Delhi buses have to carry safety pins. And are told to dress in a certain way and not go out at night to prevent rape. Where dowry is still a reality. Where millions of children are undernourished and will never see the inside of a class room.

Freedom is the right to love and be loved. A tall order that if you are a Dalit, or gay or a couple sentenced to a vengeful honour killing by a Khap Panchayat.

We are not all there yet. India as an idea is invincible. India as a nation is still discovering itself. The fight for freedom, for self hood, for pride, for exemplary citizenship, for  upright, accountable governance, for a country that cannot be mocked for its open sores by derisive guests, is not yet over. But we will get there. Because we were there once.

Reema Moudgil is the author of  Perfect Eight (http://www.flipkart.com/b/books/perfect-eight-reema-moudgil-book-9380032870?affid=unboxedwri )