Cornwall

Years ago, during a long trip to Europe, I was making my way to Cornwall from London. I had booked my train tickets online from India  a month in advance. I was to catch my train from Paddington and was very excited about this little adventure though I had just reached London by train from Paris. I like the slow travel experience trains offer, and the silence and the space.

I was booked in the second class compartment, and having figured out my coach, I made my way to the seat. I stowed my bags just above and settled next to the window. Very shortly, an old couple came by and stumbled around looking for seats. Then  we realised that they didn’t have a reservation. They had tickets to board the train, but no confirmed seats. The seat next to me was empty still, so the woman sat down, while her husband moved to the end of the train and stood patiently. I wondered how long he would last. I assumed the ticket-checker/collector would sort it out so I went back to my window.

The TC was a large, no-nonsense woman who firmly told them there would be no place on this train almost till their destination. Cajoling didn’t work, and the man went back to the doorway. The husband and wife kept exchanging glances and she was uneasy because he was standing. I got up and offered her husband my seat.

He refused but after a little pushing, agreed gratefully and took my chair. The TC, on her rounds again, saw all of this.

She told me to make my way to the refreshment area and wait there. There was no place to sit here either so I simply turned to the window and looked at the landscape. My destination was a few hours away and I wondered if my legs would make it till there. I only had a backpack as it was short trip, so there was no suitcase to sit on either.

But there were numerous people milling around and sometimes I find my strength in common circumstances and struggles. Yes, we would all make it, I reassured myself.

Sometime later the TC came around again and called me. I was just about to buy myself something to eat but she told me to follow her.

She leaned over the counter and told the woman behind it, “This young woman gave up her seat for an old couple, I’m getting her a seat now.”

What? Surprised, and elated, I followed her, with a little jump in my walk. I collected my bags and told the old couple that I had gotten a place to sit. They were both happy and we said our quick goodbyes.

As I followed the TC, I realised that we weren’t in a second class cabin and made our way into a first class cabin. She pointed to a large single chair by the window and told me to sit there. I was travelling first class, in England!

The irony of it all also struck me a bit and how the world had changed from the time Indians were kicked out of first class coaches by the British, and here I was being invited to travel first class in England.

As I settled next to a large window, I refused to sleep or even read my book, scared that I would miss even a few minutes of this experience. The windows seemed larger and the chair infinitely more comfortable. Only if there were a couple of scones, some butter and some light tea to complete this picture.

Then  a lady from the refreshment counter came along with my all-vegetarian sandwich and a bag of crisps. She placed the goodies in front of me and asked, “Would you want anything else?” Did I want anything else? Not really. Life was perfect. For now.

Bhavani crafts tours at Audiocompass.in and blogs at merrytogoaround.com