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Lakhamandal: The Lost City

Lakhamandal caves

About 20 kms off the pristine hill station of Chakrata in Uttarakhand, from the other side diagonally opposite to the entry from Kalsi, we hit the dirt road that would take us to the very historic city of Lakhamandal, situated on the banks of river Yamuna. The road, moderate in size, neither too tiny nor of urban proportions, is carved out of the side of a mountain and moves ahead in an undulating fashion along the natural curves and bends.

The drive, sandwiched between the mountain side and a ravenous dip into the valley, is both hair-raising and adventurous at the same time. As is often the case, in these hilly terrain of the beauteous Uttarakhand, the drive is the most charming part, with the individual seasons of winter, autumn, monsoon and spring adding admirably to the charm quotient.

The road is intermittently dotted with small huts – just one or two, not a settlement; sheds for the cattle, dried up thin trickles of water falls and shacks doling out lip-smacking fare of pakoras and paranthas made with hygiene standards of an Indian home. There’s never a dull moment as you take in the beautiful Uttarakhand hills, wave out in merriment at the village folk who reciprocate with equal gusto and become a piece of attraction for the mountain kids excited at the sight of urban vehicles and its strange occupants. The pit stops are something to look forward to as you refuel yourself with delectable street food fare churned with a lot of pride and attention.

While we got to Lakhamandal from Chakrata covering an additional distance of 66 kms, Lakhamandal is 125 kms from Dehra Dun via Herbertpur and 111 kms via Mussoorie.  Lakhamandal is only accessible through road. Dehra Dun Railway Station is the last station and Jolly Grant Airport in the outskirts of Dehra Dun, the only airport in the vicinity. This means that a trip to Lakhamandal, inevitably, becomes an extended vacation as you cross through at least three major tourist attractions in as many directions of this spiritual spot. Yet another tourist spot is Tiger Falls, about 52 kms from Lakhamandal and ideal for nature lovers.

Lakhamandal instantly gives credence to the belief that India still presents a magical confluence of mythology and spirituality, just as it surges ahead to chart  a new course in the technologically advanced world. It is said that whatever may be said about India, the very opposite is also true. And that is an absolute fact.

At the first glance, Lakhamandal can be dismissed as a small village tucked away in the gut of a mountain. But it is when you trudge further that the historic site unravels its mythological past and spiritual essence.

The village is charming with its stone-topped roofs and houses with exquisite wood carvings. And the people are extremely warm, honest and welcoming. It is easy to befriend these simple folk, engage them in an animated conversation about the piece of history they seem to be the custodians of and saunter into their houses for a warm broth or a platter of home-style food. These people are proud of their heritage, extremely congenial, free of the urban prejudices and honest to the core.

While walking through this quaint region, we forgot our handbags carrying our cameras, mobiles and wallet in the temple complex for a good hour or so. A shocking realization that our shoulders felt very light led to a frantic search before we reached the spot where we’d initially left our bags. It was a big relief to see them untouched while unmonitored for all this time, with all the things intact. Definitely a rare phenomenon in India’s other tourist destinations. 

Lakhamandal figures prominently in the pages of Mahabharata – one of the two major Sanskrit epics of ancient India. Mahabharata, as we all know, chronicles the story of the dynastic struggle between sibling clans of Kauravas and the Pandavas for the throne of Hastinapura. There was intense rivalry and enmity between the Kauravas and the Pandava brothers, from their youth and well into manhood.

Legend has it that the Kauravas ordered for a Lakshagriha (House of Lac) to be built in order to burn alive their cousins, the Pandavas. The Pandavas, however, escaped unscathed with the help of Lord Krishna. The Pandavas escaped by digging tunnels with the help of a miner. There are a number of cave formations near Lakhamandal. It is believed that the Pandava brothers took refuge in these caves. You can still see the cave openings on the face of the hill range in front of you. If you are adventurous enough to walk through a colony of bats hanging eerily, you can explore these dingy cavities with the help of a local guide.

Old temples of Shiva, the Pandavas and Parsuram are aplenty in this area. There is a historic cave here and an eighth century temple with a number of carved stone figures and two big Shivalingas, all of which are of considerable archaeological importance. The temple has gigantic statues of Gods, royal guards and musical instruments cut from large blocks of shining grey and granite like stone. The temple structure itself boasts a fine architecture, decorated as it is with carved figures of gods and goddesses. The figures in a myriad poses seem to be telling the story of the great epic of yore.

Just as you enter the temple complex, you are greeted by the priest who performs the traditional puja for you. There are giant drums atop a loft from where the temple drummer spreads the news of your arrival to the entire region. Sometimes the village kids, tiny in size and dwarfed by the drums but robust in spirit, merrily beat away on the drums in a surprisingly mellifluous rhythm. A local assumes the role of a guide as he walks you through the complex spanning from the main temple to the area dedicated to the large Shivaling at the far end.

The area falls under Jaunsaar-Bhabur, a tribal land where people practice polygamy and polyandry, in keeping with the customs of the times of the Pandavas (the five Pandava brothers were married to a single woman, Draupadi). The Jaunsaaris are known for their sharp features, big eyes, rosy cheeks and a flawless peaches and cream complexion. Their language is certainly different. And coupled with decidedly different mannerisms of the denizens, this exotic region transports you to a foreign land of the folklores in an entirely different era.

There is a saying in Sanskrit – atithi devo bhava (a guest is God). And the people here seem to live this dictum. There are enough invitations that spring up from our new found friends of breaking bread with them and spending a night under their modest yet beautifully wood-carved roofs. The people are extremely hospitable.

It is quite interesting to watch the villagers go about their daily chores – a young tyke herds his tribe of goats, an elderly man puffs away on his chillum as another sips from an earthen cup, a young girl beats the grain from the husks in a giant mortar and pestle, a group of traditionally clad women huddle away perhaps to share the gossip of the day – but all beam at the sight of the visitors, atithis (guests) for them and pose away for some happy memories.

If you happen to visit the historic St. Mary’s City in Maryland, USA, you will see that they have created a premier outdoor living history museum and archeological park, located on the site of the state’s first capital and the fourth permanent British settlement in the New World. Within the 835-acre site, visitors may step on board a tall ship, explore a Woodland Indian Hamlet, help Godiah Spray in his tobacco field, tour the 1676 State House and watch the ongoing reconstruction of the original brick chapel. The site also has a visitor’s center, a museum shop and hiking trails. This is a reenactment of 17th century America. Now think about the period of the Mahabharata. The scientific calculations date the Mahabharata war to around circa 3130-3140 BC. Imagine the ancient setting, the mythological legend, the naturally beautiful environs, the mystical caves and the time-warped living of its people, and you immediately see possibilities for turning a visit to Lakhamandal into an exquisite and alluring trip.

While a quick Google search reveals that there is a Tourist Rest House at Barkot, about 27 kms from here and a Forest Rest house at Kawa, 6 kms away, our local guide promises that there is a very habitable ‘hotel’ within the village that would not disappoint us. So the word of advice is to go with minimum expectation in order to enjoy the unpretentious yet clean hospitality.

The places around Lakhamandal are as pleasing, making the region a nature lover’s delight. You could drive to Bernigaad and continue the journey to Nowgaon, a small town about 12km from Bernigaad that offers the best view of the Bandarpoonch Peak (6315m) – one of the prominent peaks of the Great Himalayas. Or move onto the Purola / Jarmola regions through one of the most beautiful pine forests in Asia, with spectacular views of the Purola valley and the Kedarkanta Peak (3813m) 16km downhill through the pine forests and apple orchards is the village Mori, the gateway of Tons valley, purportedly the legendary realm of Duryodhana, in north-western Garhwal.

L. Aruna Dhir is a Hospitality & Feature Writer and Columnist for some of the world’s highest ranked Hospitality publications including ehotelier.com, Hospitality.Net, Bizcatalyst360.com. Her industry writings are used as references in case studies and hotel schools. A Freelance Writer since 1987, Aruna is also an avid blogger (www.luckyaruna.blogspot.com and www.larunadhir.blogspot.com)

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